The Clouds of Mount St. Helens

     For the past few weeks I have been wondering about the clouds of Mount St. Helens--the volcano that erupted here in Washington State in 1980. I was living on the East Coast, halfway through college, and volcanoes, the Cascade Mountains, and anything west of the Appalachian Mountains were not yet on my radar screen. My first real awareness of the eruption came in 1985, when I was assigned to work with Alaskan writer and photographer Kim Heacox on a "five-years-since" story on the mountain for National Geographic's Traveler magazine. As the researcher and fact-checker for his story, I spent a good six months learning everything I could about Mount St. Helens. Of all the newspaper and magazine stories I read and of all the documentaries I watched about the eruption and aftermath, one image stuck with me: The Cloud.


   The Cloud blasted the heart of Mount St. Helens into the sky that morning of May 18th, and sent ash, dust, pulverized rock, and gasses 16 miles into the stratosphere. The Cloud carried 550-million tons of ash into the sky and then eastward, scattering itself over 22,000-square-miles of land. The Cloud turned days into nights, suffocated the unlucky, stranded motorists, and clogged air filters. The Cloud also unleashed a flood of adjectives in the media--cataclysmic, catastrophic, choking, steaming, smothering, devastating, awesome, scorching, blasting, spewing, churning, roiling, darkening, searing, terrible, malevolent, apocalyptic--none of which, of course, come close (even in combination) to describing the sight of this natural wonder. Their inadequacy aside, the adjectives used by the media as well as eye witnesses, betray the viewers' feelings of anger, horror, and some personal affront. Mount St. Helens was anthropomorphized into a living monster whose fury and destructive forces were somehow directed toward human beings.
   I never felt this way about The Cloud, perhaps because of my physical and emotional distance from Mount St. Helens. Or perhaps because this isn't how I think about natural events, no matter how tragic the loss of life and property.  The Cloud, the lateral blast, the pyroclastic flows manifested themselves without intention or regard for consequences. And just recently I learned of the silver lining of The Cloud: nitrogen.
  The Cloud was full of gasses--sulfur dioxide, carbon dioxide, water vapor, ammonia, ozone. During its initial upward blast, The Cloud produced its own static electricity and lightning bolts. According to scientists, the lightning charged the nitrogen in the ammonia and ozone. When the ash fell to the newly scorched ground, this  nitrogen--an essential plant nutrient--fell to earth with it. Emerging plants such as pearly everlasting and fireweed may have benefited from this windfall nitrogen while the nitrogen-fixing lupines became reestablished.
  Doesn't this change the way you see The Cloud in the photograph above?

  I wrote in a previous blog about a Science Cafe talk given in Olympia by forest canopy biologist Nalini Nadkarni. In her talk, Nadkarni described how epiphytes intercepted nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, sodium, calcium, magnesium, etc.) brought into the Costa Rican rainforests by fog and mist. I wondered if the fog and mist (and rain for that matter) flowing from the Pacific Ocean to Mount St. Helens are similarly nutrient rich and are playing a role in the recovery of the forest ecosystem there. I imagined the lowliest of clouds scurrying in from the coast, carrying their microscopic feast to the hungry, parched mountain. I imagined seedlings and saplings and flowerlings drinking in tiny droplets of nourishment.
   And I imagined the millions of people who come to see the crater, the emerging dome, a puff of steam perhaps at Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument...and see a mountain bathed in mist and clouds. I would love to think they would not be disappointed, but happy (even ecstatic) instead knowing that, though their view is obscured, the mountain is getting the attention it needs from the clouds.
   With these ideas in mind, I drove south on a glorious sunny day last week to see what I could see of Mount St. Helens. Here she is, head in the clouds, reinventing herself drop by drop.

Chief William Shelton's Legacy




Under yesterday's towering cumulus congestus and cumulonimbus clouds, I paid my first visit to the Washington State Library in Olympia to track down the original story of "Pushing Up the Clouds," written by Chief William Shelton and recounted in my previous entry.

I discovered a love for rare books while researching my last book, Rare Bird, and was giddy about seeing and getting my hands on Shelton's 1923 book, The Story of the Totem Pole or Indian Legends. Copies of this 80-page book are in the Rare Book Collection of the library and the librarians there were kind enough to bring me both the 1923 first edition (top left) and the1935 second edition (top right). Each cover appeared like a door in front of me--and once I donned the white cotton gloves and gently opened the cover, I felt the possibility of entering a new world. I didn't expect to experience anything as dramatic as C.S. Lewis's snowy kingdom from The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, but I certainly felt an excitement of exploration.

The first thing I discovered was that the real title of Shelton's story, "Pushing Up the Sky," is not its real title. The actual title is "Do-kwi-Buhch," the name of the creator of the world according to the Snohomish. I am guessing Ella Clark, who includes Shelton's story in her 1953 book of Indian Legends of the Pacific Northwest, was giving the story a bit of the "Just-So-Story" style of Rudyard Kipling. Never does Shelton use the word "pushing" in his story. Instead he calls the great effort the Lifting of the Sky. I prefer the verb lift as it is more graceful and reminiscent of a technique watercolor painters use to create skies with wet paint and bunched-up paper towels--lifting the clouds. Lifting. It's so much nicer than Pushing.

During a time in U.S. history when the language and culture of the Native American tribes were being extinguished, Shelton managed to record for the first time the story of "Do-kwi-Buhch" and many others told to him by his parents, uncles, and great uncles--stories that had been passed down orally from generation to generation. Shelton collected the stories to explain the meaning of the figures he carved in an 84-foot-tall  story pole which was erected in Everett, Washington. (It is currently being restored at the American Legion Memorial Park in Everett). The pole features a carving of the Bundle of Poles used by the Puget Sound tribes to lift the sky (photograph here from the Marysville School District website).

In addition to being the last hereditary chief of the Snohomish Indian Tribe, author, and notable sculptorWilliam Shelton was an emissary between the Snonohomish and U.S. government. He was one of few Snonohomish to speak both English and Lushootseed, the language of the Coast Salish Indians. Shelton writes in the preface of his book that "it is hoped that these stories as well as the pole will stand as a monument to a vanishing race and that they will help our white friends to understand a little of the Indian's belief in sprits, or totems."

Pushing Up the Sky


I've been reading Indian Legends of the Pacific Northwest, by Ella E. Clark, a book I picked up while browsing in the U.S. Forest Service office in Olympia a few weeks ago. First published in 1953 by University of California Press, the book contains dozens of legends gathered by Clark from the actual storytellers themselves and from her scouring of "obscure books" and documents from a myriad sources. What caught my eye while paging through the book was, naturally, the woodcut (above) accompanying a Snohomish legend called "Pushing Up the Sky." Anyone who has lived through a winter in the Pacific Northwest can relate to sentiment captured in this woodcut by Robert Bruce Inverarity.

"Pushing Up the Sky" begins with the creation of the world by the "great and mighty man" Doh-Kwi-Buhch. As he worked his way from East to West, he created different groups of people and selected the best language for each group. By the time he reached Puget Sound, he was ready to end is work and decided to go no further. He created many tribes in the region and then scattered all his many remaining languages (too many according to some) among them in what is described as a "wasteful fashion."

The tribes found that they were not pleased with the way their world was created. They did not like the fact that they could not understand each others' language and that the sky was too low; the taller people bumped their heads on the sky, others climbed into the trees and then made their way into the next world--the Sky World.

The wise men of the different tribes held a meeting and agreed that the people should try to shove the sky up higher. To coordinated their efforts among the varied-tongued tribes, the wise men decided upon a word--"Ya-hoh"--which means "lift together" in all the languages. (Sounds like the old "Heave-hoh!" doesn't it?) A date for the sky lifting was set and the tribes began making and bundling poles to help with the lifting.

On the day of the sky lifting, the people braced their poles against the sky and shouted "Yah-hoh!" and succeeded in raising up the sky a little bit. With another few shoves, the sky was in a position that pleased the tribes. As with any community project, there were a few individuals who missed out. In this legend, those individuals were fishermen and hunters who were single-mindedly pursuing their prey (fish and elk) while the tribes were Yah-hohing down below. With the final shove, the animals leaped into the Sky World and the men followed. The entire party (plus a dog and two canoes) were raised with the sky where they remain to this day as starts in the Big Dipper and Orion constellations.

What a marvelous story of weather modification! The power of community, bundles of poles, and one shared word worked a meteorological miracle. How wonderful it would be to give our low, gray, and sometimes oppressive clouds a big shove every once in a while. How about Sunday?

NEXT BLOG:  How I discovered the last hereditary chief of the Snonohmish tribe, source for this legend, and his story pole in Everett, Washington.

Teens and Texting--Hold the Clouds

When I am not looking at or writing about clouds, I am in the strange and final years of raising my two teenage sons, ages 15 8/12 and 17 11/12. Raising at this point is mostly about the raising of consciousness and of forks.
I spend three to four hours a day in the kitchen, reading recipes and labels, chopping and mixing, cooking and cleaning. My boys don’t usually snack, so when they come home after school and sports practice, they need to feed immediately or they start rummaging around in the fridge and cabinets like pigs hunting for truffles. They eat plenty and with gusto. I have thought about setting the table with trowels instead of forks. Most of what they eat is pasta, rice and beans, stir-fries, crock-pot stews, broccoli, and chicken a hundred ways. I try to cook healthful meals from scratch, so it’s gratifying (though sometimes shockingly repulsive) to watch them eat.
I complain every once in a while, when I can’t seem to sling the hash quickly enough or when there are too many dirty dishes on the counter to even see the counter. But then I realize I am so fortunate to have working kitchen, to enjoy cooking, to be able to buy groceries whenever I want, and to have two healthy boys with appetites. It could so easily be otherwise; for many it is.
My other main non-cloud-related duties are driving my younger son around and waiting for older son to letting me know he has arrived home by his 1 a.m. curfew. Most of the transportation logistics is handled through texting. My younger son sends me a message “Pick me up?” five days a week at the same time when he is finished wrestling practice. I pick him up in the same place every time, so there is no need for a conversation or any reply more than the “K” I send him.
My older son uses one of my favorite four-letter word: home. I read this word on weekends, mostly, around 12:56 a.m. right after the ping of my cell phone. Luckily, he does not drink or use drugs, so my husband and I do not have to wait up for him to look at his eyes, smell his breath, or listen for slurred speech or bizarre responses to questions such “Did you have fun?”
When I was a teenager, I had to wake up my mother and let her know I was home. This usually involved my standing over her bed whispering “Mom” over and over, a little louder each time—but not loud enough wake my dad. If she was snoring, I had to bend down and whisper “Mom” right near her ear. This startled her awake, and, upon seeing the silhouette of a person two inches from her face, caused her to cry out a panicky “wha—whaa—what?” while she figured out that I was not a burglar but a daughter; then not a daughter telling her the house was on fire but a daughter telling her that she was home safely. We performed this routine at least one night a week for four years. I don’t think she was necessarily checking my sobriety; talking face to face was how things worked in the early 1980s.
Since our late-night routine inevitably woke up my father, I decided that I would devise a different plan when my own children were old enough to need curfews. I had read long ago (before cell phones) in a parents’ magazine of a system in which the parent sets the alarm clock for the curfew time. If the child arrives home by curfew, he or she turns off the alarm and the parents sleep through the night. If the child is late, the parents are awakened by the alarm and deal with the problem then. This seemed reasonable to me, but then I realized nothing would prevent my son from coming home, turning off the alarm, and heading right back out.
So we text. Most Friday and Saturday nights, I put my cell phone by my bed, sleep until the ping wakes me, see the word “Home,” reply “K,” (really short for “okay”), and fall back asleep. You can hear a pin drop in our house, and I’ve never heard him heading back out in the wee hours.
I complain every once in a while about the driving and the interrupted sleep, but then feel really spoiled about complaining. I am grateful for two boys who are participating in team sports, enjoying friends, having a social life, not breaking curfew. It could so easily be otherwise—and given that I have still a few years to go until they fledge—it might be. In just a few years, when both boys are off at college, I will likely miss the “good old days” as a part-time chauffeur and curfew enforcer, days when I knew where they were and when they’d be home, safe in bed.
This past weekend, my life as a mother of teenagers became a very short poem, perhaps even a one-letter koan. While fiddling with my cell phone, I noticed I had a few months’ worth of text messages. Before hitting the delete key, I scrolled down though the received messages:

And then I scrolled down through the messages I had sent...
Pick me up?
Pick me up?
Pick me up?
Pick me up?
Pick me up?
Home.
Home.
Home.

...and then to my replies.

K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K